devoured

{Shoptalk} Drunk on the Moon, Newtown

2012-02-20T15:39:00.001+11:00

I came across vintage furniture shop Drunk on the Moon by accident on the little strip of shops and restaurants on Newtown's Australia Street, home to the excellent Black Star Pastry cafe. The shop is tiny but packed with a really well curated selection of vintage furniture and home accessories, like wooden dining tables, small wooden pigeon hole shelves, ladders, ice chests, stools and lots more. Like a little piece of the Brooklyn Flea in Sydney's Newtown, the prices are really reasonable and it's one of those places where you fall in love with everything, from the big pieces to the small. Oh, and if you're into typography there are vintage Scrabble letters for $1 a piece.

Drunk on the Moon, 247 Australia Street, Newtown, tel: 0409 841 451, www.drunkonthemoon.com.au

Images courtesy Drunk on the Moon

Sydney's best ethnic eats: a suburban adventure

2012-02-16T18:00:00.001+11:00

By Liz Ledden. Article first published by Travelwire Asia, 26 January 2012

SYDNEY’S culturally diverse population produces no shortage of delicious cuisine from all over the world. A trip to the suburbs, particularly those in the city’s inner west, south west and west uncovers an amazing array of eats from Asia, Europe, the Middle East, South America and more. It’s literally the world on a plate. Here are some of the most daytrip-worthy destinations in Sydney for ethnic eats.

Lakemba

Home to a large Muslim population of various ethnic backgrounds, Lakemba is a fascinating place to explore and eat. Excellent Lebanese food has put Lakemba on the Sydney food lovers’ map, in particular the justifiably popular Jasmins offering the best Lebanese style grilled meats, dips, salads and breads at a bargain price. For dessert, cross Haldon Street to Patisserie Arja for baklava, ladies fingers and other middle eastern desserts of the pastry persuasion. In Lakemba you will also find Sydney’s only restaurant featuring Christmas and Cocos Islands cuisine, Island Dreams Café, with its intriguing blend of Malaysian, Indonesian and Chinese influences.

Jasmins in Lakemba serves up excellent Lebanese fare. Pic: Liz Ledden.

Fairfield

Far flung Fairfield in Sydney’s southwest is home to many new migrants to Australia, and a diverse mix of more established ones. The streets surrounding Fairfield train station are alive and thriving, packed with restaurants, cafés and food shops from Lao restaurants to an Afghan bakery and Sydney’s only Iraqi restaurant, Al Diaffah Al Iraqi. Lao Village is an authentic, cheap and unassuming little eatery for some seriously authentic Lao cuisine – try the grilled quail and the chicken larb. La Paula is the perfect dessert spot for Chilean sweets, specialising in luscious dulce de leche creations. New on the Fairfield scene is Misky Cravings, a homely Peruvian place riding Sydney’s new wave of Latino inspired eateries.

Bankstown

A mix of Lebanese and Vietnamese culinary influences dominate the Bankstown dining scene, which also features Indian and African eateries and many excellent delis and fresh produce emporiums. Pho An is a must try – a large and buzzing Vietnamese restaurant featuring nothing but variations of chicken and beef pho. The broth is fragrant, the noodles are abundant and the flavour is unbeatable amongst the city’s plethora of other pho joints. For a raucous Lebanese feast in a party atmosphere, try Summerland.

Cabramatta

The Little Vietnam of Sydney, Cabramatta is a former trouble spot for drugs and crime come good. It is now more famous for pho than dodgy dealings and has the colour, aromas and vibrancy of a Saigon market. Bursting at the seams with Vietnamese restaurants, fruit and vegetable shops, cafes (coffee with condensed milk anyone?), seafood sellers and fabric merchants, the suburb has some of Sydney’s best Vietnamese food. There’s the perennially popular Thanh Binh for everything from roll your own fresh spring rolls to succulent seafood, and migrant success story Bau Truong among many others. If the bustling atmosphere is too much head to nearby Canley Heights for low-key but equally delicious eats, like the excellent Holy Basil for spicy Lao food dished up in stylish surrounds.

Holy Basil in Canley Heights is a good place to try out some authentic Laos flavours. Pic: Liz Ledden.

Haberfield

Haberfield in Sydney’s inner west can best be described as Sydney’s Little Italy without neighbouring Leichhardt’s crowds. Excellent old school pizza can be found at Napoli in Bocca, and there’s also La Disfida and Dolcissimo for casual Italian dining. Pasticceria Papa is a great dessert pitstop with its array of Italian biscuits and cakes, while A&P Sulfaro is another contender in the best biscotti stakes. Haberfield is also home to excellent food shopping, with its Italian bread shop, fresh pasta purveyor and cheese shop and deli, Paesanella. Even the supermarkets have a heavy Italian bent, evidenced by the amazing antipasti array at the IGA supermarket.

Petersham

Closer to the city centre, the inner west suburb of Petersham is home to a large Portuguese community and features a small but enticing array of Portuguese eateries on its main thoroughfare, busy New Canterbury Road. Sweet Belem reputedly has the best Portuguese tarts this side of Lisbon, while hungry locals queue for succulent and spicy Portuguese chicken at Frango, which is cooked flattened over coals and basted in a spicy peri peri sauce. There are Portuguese butcheries along the strip and several other eateries, such as Casa Brasil for churrasco, or barbequed meats. The local bottleshop features an abundance of Portuguese wine too, including its intriguing ‘green’ wine, Vinho Verde.

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Other articles I've written for Travelwire Asia lately feature some of my favourite eats from my old homes Cambodia and Vietnam (miss them, miss the food!!):

6 must-try Vietnamese dishes

5 must-try Cambodian dishes

Oh, and for more on Lakemba, one of my favourite foodie suburbs (in case you haven't guessed) here's an article I wrote for Pocket Cultures:

A Taste of the Middle East in Sydney's Lakemba

Loving...Marrickville's cafes

2012-02-08T21:53:00.000+11:00

Burger + vino at Marrickville Rd Cafe

I can't seem to get enough of Marrickville's cafes lately (which keep on multiplying - yay!). I've blogged about the gorgeous Double Roasters before and while I do love it I have a tendency to try new and different places all the time.

Marrickville Road Cafe is a cute, grungy little place with a graffiti mural on one wall and a brilliant breakfast burrito. It's just started operating as a wine bar and dinner spot on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. The wine selection is minimal and it's no sommelier fronted Surry Hills small bar, but for a nice glass of cab sav and a satisfying burger on a recent rainy meant-to-be-summer evening it definitely hit the spot.

From one cafe crush to another, my allegiances then switched to 2204 on Addison Road. Cavernous and cool, there's an exposed brick wall on one side and a black wall on the other with vintage couches to sink into. The bacon, brie and cranberry panini is delicious and there's free wi-fi to while away your day.

I'm also totally in love with Hellenic Bakery on Illawarra Road. Think a Greek sweet emporium packed to the rafters with luscious cakes, biscuits, breads and pastries. While it's not really a cafe, you can eat at one of their few outdoor tables and grab a coffee from the cafe next door. Their sweets run the gamut from Greek (like galaktoboureko) to the generic (like mud cake) and it's all so enticing. My favourite so far is their chocolate cannoli complete with choc chips squished on the end at only $2 a pop.

Cornersmith seems to be hottest thing to ever hit Marrickville... so hot it's always so packed. (No I don't want to 'go on a list' and wait. It's MARRICKVILLE not the Lower freakin' East Side!). Once I get over the fact you may have to queue for their reportedly awesome housemade pickles, locavore cuisine and Mecca coffee and actually eat there I'll let you know!

{Sydney Eats} Faheem Fast Food, Enmore

2012-02-03T13:21:00.000+11:00

Tandoori chicken

Chickpeas

Nihari (Pakistani beef curry)

A Sydney stalwart for cheap Pakistani and Indian Eats, Faheem Fast Food has long been the go-to place for taxi drivers hailing from the subcontinent. It still is, but you're also likely to see groups of 20-something Newtown dwellers pre or post bar crawl, families and assorted in the know spice lovers amongst the mix.

The decor is no frills, some say the service is brusque (I say efficient) but the food is seriously hot and seriously tasty. The tandoori chicken is a must try - lean, succulent and spicy; the chickpeas (in a tomato based curry) is a delicious vege option, and the Pakistani speciality 'Nihari' is a winner - two chunks of melt in your mouth, slow braised beef in a rich and earthy curry, great for naan dipping. Their mango lassi is the perfect heat beating beverage. Dishes at Faheem's hover around the $11 mark and are substantially sized - bargain.

Faheem Fast Food, 194-196 Enmore Road, Enmore, tel: 02 9550 4850
Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 12pm-midnight

{Sydney Eats} Island Dreams Cafe, Lakemba

2012-01-23T21:30:00.000+11:00

The interior evokes a tropical island feel

These are no ordinary tea sets

Lakemba is well known for its amazing Lebanese eateries (like Jasmins) but there's more to this fascinating multicultural hub than baklava and hommus. One of the most unique places on the bustling Haldon Street strip is Island Dreams Cafe, specialising in Christmas and Cocos Islands cuisine. These remote islands are territories of Australia and located in the Indian ocean - Christmas Island just south of Jakarta and the Cocos Islands half way between Western Australia and Sri Lanka.

The food from the islands is heavily influenced by Malaysian cuisine (with a dash of Chinese and Indonesian) so there's nasi lemak, beef rendang, curry puffs and chicken curry (on the bone) on the menu. Lemon chilli chicken is another specialty, and on the day we visited there was a stirfried liver dish too. It's cheap and cheerful home style cooking at its best, with a choice of two dishes and rice at $8.50 with a beyond enormous serving size. The rendang is rich and not overly spicy - it's hearty, warming food definitely served with love.

The drinks here are major drawcards too (just ask the bunch of regulars hanging out the front on the pavement), from teh tarik to a large range of coffees from the typical to the traditional - think sweetened with condensed milk. I loved their delicious falooda style rose syrup based shake flecked with basil seeds, and there was a coconut consumed too (Saigon flashbacks!). I felt very welcomed and at home here, and just a little bit wistful for an exotic, tropical escape.

Beef rendang, yellow rice and stirfried liver

A rose syrup shake with basil seeds (the Christmas Islands version of a falooda)

Island Dreams Cafe, 47 Haldon Street, Lakemba, tel: 02 9740 9909

Open Mon-Fri 8.30am-10.30pm, Sat 9.30am-10pm, Sun 10am-9.30pm

{Sydney Eats} Bau Truong, Marrickville

2012-01-17T15:38:00.002+11:00

Bau Truong stands out like a beacon of cool design in a suburb awash with delicious but aesthetically challenged Vietnamese restaurants. A cool turquoise and yellow theme pervades the otherwise moody, dark interior, there's a loft level creating a great feeling of space and a cool warrior-like wall mural dominates. The restaurant is the third in a series of Bau Truongs - the others are mainstays of the Cabramatta and Canley Heights eating scenes.

Fortunately the food here matches its superior surrounds, with the menu featuring Vietnamese cuisine with a focus on the country's south and some dishes offering a nod to the owners Vietnamese-Chinese heritage. There's a 'tapas' like menu featuring snacks from bo la lot to banh xeo and fresh spring rolls, then a large menu with soups, stews, grilled meats and more...lots more! Note to parents: the soft shell crab with tamarind sauce is the perfect kid-friendly food - crunchy fried batter, easy to eat, tasty but chilli-less (and there's highchairs, and they open at 5pm for dinner so you can get your not so date-ish date night on).

Soft shell crab with tamarind sauce

I loved their salt and pepper squid, one of their more Chinese influenced dishes. Covered in a tasty mix of shallot and chilli it also comes with a bowl of salt, pepper and lemon for dipping. There are wines by the glass for a reasonable $8 or so and there's delicious Angry Man beer by Murray's Brewing Co. Basically, it ticks all the boxes for a family-friendly dining destination with gorgeous decor and amazing food. Did I mention it's in my neighbourhood too?!

Bau Truong, 185 Marrickville Road, Marrickville, tel: 02 9569 4938
Also at:
42 John Street, Cabramatta, tel: 02 9727 4492
250 Canley Vale Road, Canley Heights, tel: 02 9755 7099

{Product review} Chobani yoghurt

2012-01-13T15:01:00.000+11:00

I've always been a yoghurt lover, from the little Yoplait tubs of my childhood to the plain Greek yoghurt that's a permanent fixture in my fridge today. I usually add my own toppings to Greek yoghurt, but when I was sent some flavoured yoghurt samples from Chobani this week (a New York based co. that's now available in Australia) I was happy to indulge.

Rather than pre-mixed, their yoghurt comes plain with a layer of fruit mixture at the bottom (the taste test winner was the passionfruit). The yoghurt itself is labne-like in texture with its liquid strained - luxuriously thick and creamy but surprisingly fat free, with some flavours at 2%. You'd never guess this was the case though. It's textural trickery at its best!

As for my favourite way to eat yoghurt, this is what I do to convince myself I'm having a sweet treat when it's actually healthy (clever - I know!):

a bowl of Greek yoghurt
a handful of frozen blueberries & raspberries
a handful of roasted almonds
1 dessertspoon of shredded coconut
1 teaspoon of rosewater

Add toppings to yoghurt and voila! A dessert worthy of a healthy eating new year's resolution.

P.S. If you're wondering where to find Chobani it's currently retailing at Woolworths' stores throughout Sydney at $2.29 a pop.

A thought for 2012...

2012-01-11T21:48:00.001+11:00

6 great places to shop in Phnom Penh

2012-01-10T15:08:00.000+11:00

Bliss - a gorgeous shop and day spa on Phnom Penh's Street 240

By Liz Ledden. Article first published on Travelwire Asia, 6 January 2012.

IF you haven’t visited Cambodia then shopping may not be one of the first things that spring to mind about this fascinating southeast Asian destination. However, Cambodian silk is stunning, high quality and often quite affordable, as is the silver jewellery. There’s a burgeoning fashion scene with both locals and expats producing innovative designs, a flourishing art scene and gorgeous homewares abound.

Ambre
Phnom Penh’s premier shopping destination for fashionistas, Ambre features stunning, colourful clothing by Cambodia’s best known fashion designer, Romyda Keth. Situated in a French colonial era building, the shop is divided into colour coded rooms over two levels. In addition to evening dresses and stylish separates there’s a selection of menswear, childrenswear and more formal offerings for weddings and events. Romyda’s designs sell for much more in her overseas stores, so shopping for her designs on her home turf is a treat.
37 Street 178, Phnom Penh, tel: +855 (0)23 217 935, open 10am-7pm Tues-Sun

Bliss
Casual, cotton, cool clothing can be found at beautiful Bliss, a pitstop on Street 240 for stylish locals, expats and travellers for over 15 years now. Think floaty kaftans, breezy tops and light cotton sundresses with a focus on eclectic patterns, plus funky fabric bags, tropical chic quilts and cushions. If the gorgeous goods on offer weren’t enough, there’s an idyllic day spa onsite for a post shopping massage.
29 Street 240, Phnom Penh, tel: +855 (023) 215 754, open 9am-9pm Mon-Sun

Jasmine
Jasmine is another must-stop shop on Street 240’s strip of gorgeous boutiques. It features Cambodian silk and organza creations of the dressier variety, with beautiful silk shirt dresses in block colours a standout. It is highly priced for Cambodia with pieces in the US$100-$200 range, but for the workmanship and quality of materials used it offers good value by western standards.
73 Street 240, Phnom Penh, tel: +855 (0)23 223 103

Russian Market
An obligatory stop on any Phnom Penh site-seeing circuit, the Russian Market is a shopping stalwart for several good reasons. It is cheap as chips (even before bargaining), it features brand name clothing that has found its way to the market from the city’s many garment factories, it’s full of local character and colour and sells all manner of Cambodian trinkets, home décor, accessories and potential gifts. Look for local NGO Mith Samlanh’s ‘Too-It Too-it’ stall which sells funky objects made from things like newspapers and recycled rice bags.
Corner Street 163 and 444, Phnom Penh, open sunset to sundown 7 days

Kravan House
A one-stop shop for Cambodian made souvenirs, Kravan House has a little bit of everything stashed inside an ubiquitous narrow shophouse. There’s a cabinet of covetable silver jewellery, silk bedspreads, handbags, carvings, and a rainbow of silk, cotton and organza scarves woven in the Cambodian countryside. The staff are friendly and prices here are super cheap compared to some of the surrounding shops hawking similar wares.
13 Street 178, Phnom Penh, tel: +855 (0)23 990 195, open 8am-9pm 7 days

Chocolate by the Shop
Belgian chocolate made in Cambodia has to be the ultimate east-west fusion dessert, especially if it’s their delicious Kampot pepper variety. The pepper used is from Kampot province in Cambodia’s south, and is highly regarded for its fragrant, full flavour. In French colonial times it was coveted by Parisian chefs and is now being rediscovered by a new generation of travelling gourmands. Stop by this cute chocolate café to try some enveloped in dark chocolate, and be tempted by their other sweet offerings too.
35 Street 240, Phnom Penh, tel: +855 (0)23 998 638

Our Sydney staycation

2012-01-04T15:35:00.000+11:00

The Christmas and New Year period feels like it's fast becoming a fading memory of copious amounts of delicious food, wine, champers and catchups with family and friends from near and far. I think our holiday season this year was one of the best ever, perhaps made more special by the fact we stayed in Sydney and did the tourist thing, discovering more amazing places on our own doorstep instead of hightailing it elsewhere in search of adventure. Here are some highlights of our Sydney staycation (a concept to which I'm now a convert!):

Little Bay

The beach
Little Bay is officially my new favourite beach. Located in Sydney's southeastern suburbs (think below Maroubra - still the eastern suburbs, but far flung eastern suburbs) it has a hideaway factor with few visitors and no roads directly surrounding it. You access Little Bay via a short walk through a golf course and down a steep staircase, where there's conveniently a new looking bathroom and shower facility. The beach itself is actually a sheltered bay surrounded by dramatic cliffs and rock formations, with white sand and crystal clear, calm water. You definitely feel far removed from civilisation while swimming here.

The eats
A chance discovery and new favourite post-beach pitstop is Croquembouche Patisserie, a French-run patisserie and cafe in the unassuming location of Botany Road, Botany. We stopped here after swimming at Little Bay and were surpised to discover coffee and sweets rivalling the best of those found in cooler locales, with macarons to rival Zumbo's. Highly recommended - the jaffa macaron and the luscious salted caramel variety. The coffee's excellent too.

The stunning view from Stanwell Tops on the Grand Pacific Drive

The daytrip
We decided to check out the Grand Pacific Drive, a picturesque stretch of road weaving south through the Royal National Park leading to a stunning ocean vista at Stanwell Tops. The road then hugs a curve of coastline enroute to the surfing villages between Sydney's south and Wollongong, like Thirroul and Bulli (let's just say that holiday house envy ensued), and eventually ends in Nowra. To say it was beautiful was an understatement - blue sky, sunshine and sparkly blue sea was the perfect sight to behold on the first day of 2012.

Future staycation possibilities are endless... but the daytrip in particular gave us a newfound appreciation of living back in Australia and the family fun that is 'the roadtrip' - our holiday style of choice at the next opportunity!

{Cafe Crush} Double Roasters, Marrickville

2011-12-22T15:21:00.000+11:00

Coffee fixes abated at bustling Double Roasters

Double Roasters is one of the latest cafes to grace the burgeoning Marrickville cafe scene, already home to SMH's cafe of the year Coffee Alchemy, a Bourke Street Bakery outlet, kid friendly Post Cafe and a gazillion others.

It's a bit Brooklyn-ish, with it's own brand of coffee roasted on-site, exposed beams and industrial chic decor. The crowd is a typical inner-west mix of 20 to 40 something hipsters, students and families. On the plus side, the brunch and lunch offerings are simple and delicious and generally under $10, with most hitting the very purse friendly $7.50 mark. The coffee is delicious and smooth, albeit mild in flavour.

Orbs of eggy goodness

On the downside there are no highchairs for the hipster babies (though there are colouring books - tick) and the service can be a little erratic when they're busy. All is forgiven though for luscious poached eggs and sauted mushrooms totally hitting the Sunday brunch-lusting spot. Bonus points for big bunches of hydrangeas and cool industrial light pendants - think Doug up on Bourke, with coffee and food.

Double Roasters, 199 Victoria Rd, Marrickville, tel: 02 9572 7711, www.doubleroasters.com
Open Mon-Sun 6am-3pm

{Sydney Eats} Restaurant Arras

2011-12-13T21:56:00.001+11:00

The destination:

The new incarnation of Restaurant Arras - the mod Brit turned modern European fine diner, which is on the site of the old Becasse, which was the old Edna's Table, which is where we got engaged!

The vibe:
Luxuriously cool, with chairs upholstered in striped Paul Smith fabric; large, spaced out tables on two levels and a palette of cool icy whites with a splash of colour found in the wall mural. It's decadent yet modern, and the atmosphere is that of special occasions - like date nights.

The eats:
A 9 course degustation menu of amazingly creative, colourful dishes, from nettle tartar with a quail egg (one of my favourite dishes of the meal) to pork belly with whey puree and crackling, a crab san choi bau, a deconstructed tuna nicoise, lamb with eggplant, scallop and squid, whiting with broad beans and some amazing desserts - white asparagus with goats cheese and white chocolate, and the visually playful cinematic souffle, featuring a popcorn souffle in a copper pot, popcorn icecream, a burst open bag of, you guessed it, popcorn, with a jug of caramel sauce to douse it all in. If that wasn't enough to top off an amazing meal there was more to come - Arras' famed hot pink perspex tray laden with chocolates, lollies, candies and other miniature sweets. Despite it being an all you can eat affair we could only muster the room for a few, sampling the honeycomb, mint chocolate and licorice lollipop.

The verdict:
A perfect dining destination for great service, amazing wines and creative cuisine. We loved everything about our experience at Arras from the helpful and knowledgeable staff (who recommended a great Greek wine from Santorini - something we'd never think of ordering) to the ultimate indulgent dessert, the popcorn cinematic souffle, plus a whole lot of delicious eats in between. It's a little wallet denting, but worth it for a splurgey meal (any excuse will do!).

P.S. Restaurant Arras was reviewed in this week's SMH Good Living. If you missed it, it got a deservedly big thumbs up and earned 15/20.

Restaurant Arras, 204 Clarence Street, Sydney, tel: 02 9283 1922, www.restaurantarras.com.au
Image courtesy The Daily Telegraph

{Cafe Crush} iberry Garden, Chiang Mai

2011-12-06T17:19:00.001+11:00

Inside iberry

On our holiday in Chiang Mai last month I had to check out icecream mecca and Thai hipster haunt iberry Garden, owned by Thai artist and comedian Udom and home to some quirky decorative drawcards.

I used to rattle on about my love for iberry in my old blog A Girl in Asia quite a bit. In case you missed it - iberry is a Thai ice-cream chain with the most amazing array of icecream and sorbet flavours, from the Asian inspired (mangosteen, tamarind, salted plum, rambutan, spicy green mango...) to more traditional but equally luscious numbers of the chocolate/hazelnut/caramel variety. And then there's 'banana and cheese'.

The dog statue dominating the garden

Another of iberry Garden's quirky touches

The garden at the Chiang Mai branch houses an enormous yellow dog festooned with hanging colourful lanterns in the tree above, while on one side of the cafe is a cartoon like head. It supposedly resembles the owner and you can stick your head inside and pose in it for souveniry snaps. The usual array of iberry's icecream flavours are there with some seasonal additions for good measure. This time I sampled pomegranate plus mocha almond fudge (not seasonal, just ridiculously lush).

Weirdly, we ran into someone my husband went to school with while there - what are the chances?! Have you ever randomly run into anyone you know while travelling?

iberry Garden, Siri Mangkalajarn Road, off Nimmanhaemin Rd Soi 17, Chiang Mai, Thailand, www.iberryhomemade.com
Open 10.30am until 10pm daily

The Finders Keepers market, Sydney

2011-12-02T15:02:00.001+11:00

Artwork by Beth-Emily

After a little detour to Asia (and there may be more!) it's back to exploring sunny Sydney.... Can't wait to check out this market tomorrow which features independent artists and designers and their wares. Christmas present to self - sorted!

{Shoptalk} The House, Chiang Mai

2011-11-30T19:21:00.001+11:00

Colourful treasures at The House

The House is a cool cafe and shopping compound in Chiang Mai's old city crammed with colourful wares, from melamine kitchenware in The House Shop, to covetable clothes in Ginger and gorgeous wooden furniture and artworks in Nomad.

After perusing, playing and purchasing there's a beautiful cafe (Ginger & Kafe) for sweet treats and caffeinated goodness - a slice of lemon curd cake and an iced chai totally hit the post-shopping spot. The House is for lovers of colour and contemporary Asian style, with this maximalist at heart in consumery heaven.

The House, 199 Moonmuang Road, Chiang Mai, tel: +66 (0)53 419 011-12, www.thehousethailand.com

image courtesy The House

{Chiang Mai Eats} Huen Phen

2011-11-29T19:30:00.001+11:00

L to R: Jackfruit salad, Chiang Mai sausage, Northern Thai chicken curry

The culinary highlight of our recent Chiang Mai stay was definitely Huen Phen, which specialises in northern Thai or 'Lanna' cuisine.

By day, the front part of the restaurant serves up rustic yet tasty local fare like the area's famed 'khao soi' chicken noodle curry dish, and by night, the kitschy Thai decor-packed back room opens. There's an opulent teak daybed, hanging bells, red lacquered urns and much, much more bedecking every nook and cranny of the restaurant, like a rustic Thai market stall come to life.

Just one of the hidden treasures found strewn around the restaurant

After the initial distraction of the decidedly maximalist interior, our attention turned to the all important food. The menu helpfully points out the restaurant's particular specialities and it's all mouthwateringly enticing. We stick with the most regional sounding dishes on the menu - Chiang Mai sausage (pork with a delicious blend of fragrant Thai herbs and served with fried kaffir lime leaves - yum!), a northern Thai chicken curry (coconut milk free which is the northern style, but a bit heavy on the fish sauce), a jackfruit salad, sticky rice and a mindblowingly amazing spicy pork and chilli dip, accompanied by fresh green beans and cucumber sticks. Savoury, spicy perfection!

Pork and chilli dip - our favourite dish at Huen Phen

Huen Phen, 112 Rachamankha Road, Chiang Mai, tel: 66 53 277 103

Phnom Penh rising

2011-11-20T20:49:00.001+11:00

Early morning tai chi on the riverfront

It was so great to see Cambodia's capital Phnom Penh looking so lush, green, shiny and happy when we dropped in a few weeks ago. On our first morning (after waking for the day at 3am...ahem) we made our way down to the riverfront at dawn to be greeted with tai chi classes, dancing (dancercise?!) and joggers on the newly paved, landscaped and exercise equipment bedecked public space fronting the swollen Tonle Sap river.

Beautiful morning on the full and fast flowing Tonle Sap

It was a happy sight and a far cry from the riverfront of old. In 2007 (in Phnom Penh years 2007 is really old news) I would return home filthy from early morning walks along the unpaved dirt, after dodging rubbish piles and bedraggled kids. In 2008/09 we'd weave in and out of the jumble of parked motorbikes on the footpath as the riverfront was cordoned off with a big billboard covered fence for maintenance. Finally, it's been restored to a beautiful, practical and clean space Phnom Penh-ites can enjoy.

Riverfront makeover aside, the city looked newer, glossier, shinier - there were new businesses everywhere from cool new eating and drinking establishments (Brown, Yumi, Rahu et al) to the not so cool but inevitable encroachment of a KFC on what seemed like every block. The streets surrounding the Russian Market were almost unrecognisable, with a rash of new clothing stores cashing in on the brand name western clothing made in the city's garment factories. The Central Market's multi million dollar renovation project is complete, and many existing businesses have expanded, been renovated, or opened multiple branches.

Inside the revamped Central Market

My old street (108) has new green spaces and far less rubbish. There are no longer homeless families literally living on my old doorstep. It's so amazing and heartening to see Phnom Penh rise from the crumbling, poverty stricken, dangerous place of old to a thriving, creative, constantly improving mini-metropolis, still with loads of charm and a dose of edginess for good measure. I think I will always feel some kind of pull to Phnom Penh after spending a few years living there - an intense period of change, new experiences and new life direction for me.

This Bangkok Post piece is a great read on the new face of Phnom Penh but raises interesting points about the dark side of rapid change, like forced evictions. It will definitely be interesting to keep an eye on how the city continues to evolve.

Missing....adventures in Asia with the kids

2011-10-21T12:46:00.000+11:00

Fun in Saigon playing on motorbikes with one of our neighbours/cafe owners

Zara with her neighbourhood BFF Jerry (named after Tom & Jerry...!)

Tuk-tuking around Phnom Penh on a trip back post-Saigon move

One of the things I miss about living in Asia is seeing a place through our daughters' eyes (well our oldest anyway, Zara, who lived in Phnom Penh until she was 3 months old then Saigon until she was over two. The youngest, Sofia, was only a few months old when we left Saigon for Sydney).

I miss the days we used to walk to our local market to buy our fresh fruit and vegetables, and that Zara thought it was normal to go to 'the market' instead of 'the shops'. I miss her trying to climb up our neighbours motorbikes until someone would sit her on one for fun, and how happy it made her. I loved that pre-babycino obsession she used to drink out of coconut shells bigger than her head, while I had my daily cafe sua da, and that she'd sampled street food by the age of 18 months. Zara was so used to all things Asian that she had noticeable culture shock after moving to Australia - wondering where all the motorbikes were, why we weren't jumping in taxis anymore, and where her little friends had gone...

I'm happy we lived in Asia for her first two years, but I'm a little regretful and sad for the opportunities that could have been if we stayed a bit longer. I wonder what our now almost three and a half year old would be like if we still lived in Vietnam, what she'd be doing, what she'd be saying, how she'd react to everything. And I wonder how our one year old would be different should we be in Asia instead of here, the only home she will remember.

I have to keep reminding myself it wasn't a utopian wonderland though - Zara hated being touched and grabbed by strangers on the street on a daily basis. Manoeuvring a stroller around was a bit of a nightmare sometimes, and things like powercuts seemed extra annoying with little ones around. As time passes we (luckily) remember more of the good bits than the bad though.

I love that Zara remembers Asia well enough to be excited for our upcoming trip, and I'm thankful Sofia will get a taste of the continent she was born - to experience some of the things her big sister got to do at her age. I also like to think their 'living in Asia' adventures aren't over forever, but we'll see!

The Sultan's Table, Enmore

2011-10-10T22:08:00.000+11:00

The destination:
We headed to Enmore's The Sultan's Table for Turkish delights (of the savoury kind) on a whim after nearby Faheem's Fast Food was found to be closed. Our cravings for something spicy and subcontinental were overcome once we saw the delicious spread inside The Sultan's Table, a Turkish kebab shop and eat-in restaurant serving up pides, kebabs, dips, charcoal grilled meats and lots of vegetarian treats (vine leaves, stuffed capsicums and lots more).

The vibe:
The Sultan's Table initially looks like just another Sydney kebab shop (with a slightly more enticing array of food on display), but out the back is a simple covered terrace to sit and the food (and charming service) is anything but ordinary.

The eats:
First up, we had a plate of dips (hummous, baba ganoush and beetroot) and Turkish bread fresh from the oven - a significan't serving size for a 'small' which could have been lunch in itself. Each of the dips were delicious but the beetroot was our pick. The zucchini fritters we tried were a little dry and uninspiring, but the charcoal grilled chicken shish kebab more than compensated. It actually had a similar texture and taste to chicken cooked in the tandoor, minus the spices.

The verdict:
Ultra friendly staff, amazingly fresh bread and moreish dips. It's not a visually inspiring restaurant, but like many good places to eat it's all about the food.

Sultan's Table, 179 Enmore Road, Enmore, tel: 02 9557 0229

The Owl House

2011-10-06T10:41:00.000+11:00

The destination:
Small bar and restaurant The Owl House, which was recently named best bar with food by The Sydney Morning Herald's Good Food Guide. Set in a converted Crown Street terrace near William Street, it mixes a killer cocktail and wine list with a highly enticing food menu spanning influences from Japan to Spain and beyond. (Tip - small wine bar Love Tilly Devine is just around the corner, the perfect place for pre-drink drinks!).

The vibe:
Dark, cozy, intimate and friendly - most of the clientele when we visited were on low-key dates or double dates. The staff were super friendly, even conjuring up a coveted upstairs table for us when it was supposedly full. With its old fireplace and narrow confines, the upstairs room conjured memories of inner city house parties circa the late 90s - homely yet eclectic!

The eats:
We ordered a selection of non-cohesive but nonetheless amazing dishes, starting with the chorizo and manchego croquettes (comfort food at its best) and the fresh oysters with a 'cloud' of tequila, lemon, lime and soda - fresh and effervescent! For entree we had the sashimi of bonito with wasabi and cucumber emulsion, daikon, soy dashi jelly and miso cured shizo, and the quail dumpling with crispy pigs tail, black pudding, scallop congee, shitake mushrooms, coriander and chilli. The quail dumpling dish trumped the sashimi with its interesting combination of ingredients and full flavours. The pigs tail was crispy and delectable, and the blood pudding a revelation for this first-timer (tastes like chorizo!).

Next, we had the confit lamb shoulder with white eggplant puree, garlic, olives and sweetbreads - the tender lamb was melt in your mouth and as for the sweetbreads, these offputting sounding little morsels were fried balls of crunchy goodness, and it was easy to overlook that they are actually offal! We also had the Blackmore wagyu skirt with crumbed osso bucco, bone marrow, cavollo nero, polenta, spring onions and preserved lemon - beef perfection. There was a limited dessert selection (a cheese board and two sweet offerings) so we opted for gelato and macchiatos around the corner at Bill and Toni's instead- old school!

The verdict:
Fun, casual bolthole with an unpretentious atmosphere and amazing food and wine - there's good reason for their SMH award!

The Owl House, 97 Crown Street, Darlinghurst, tel: 02 9357 5060, www.theowlhouse.com.au

City Guide: Bangkok devoured

2011-09-27T16:27:00.000+10:00

Bangkok is one of my favourite cities in the entire universe, with the best food and shopping and great decor and design at every turn, not to mention the biggest outdoor market in the world. It's the most pulsating, amazing, alive place I've ever been (and yes, I've been to New York!). These are the Bangkok eating, drinking and shopping spots I love, the places I recommend to anyone who asks, and the favourites I frequent time and time again when in the city!

EAT & DRINK

Spring & Summer - floor cushions strewn on the lawn at the outdoor bar in front of 'Spring'

Spring & Summer: The coolest complex ever - an outdoor bar on a lawn (Winter), delicious Thai food inside a mid-century modern house (Spring) and a separate dessert restaurant (Summer) for luscious chocolate concoctions and cocktails! 199 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (Promsri), www.springnsummer.com

Eat Me: Like a mod-Oz restaurant transported to Bangkok, the menu here features a mix of influences and flavours. There's a lengthy wine list and an art gallery on-site - it's the perfect 'date night' restaurant. Soi Pipet 2 (off Convent Road), Silom, www.eatmerestaurant.com

Vertigo at the Banyan Tree: An amazing open air rooftop bar located 61 floors high. I've only been here for drinks but you can eat here too. A total must for the breathtaking city views and the fact you're actually outside up so high. 21/100 South Sathon Road, www.banyantree.com

Inside Long Table

Long Table: A chic, loungey bar with city views and upscale delicious Thai food in the adjoining restaurant. Sit at the eponymous 'long table', said to be the longest in Bangkok, or in a cosy booth for something more intimate. Great decor, delicious Northern Thai sausage. One for a splurgey night and a taste of Bangkok chic. 25th floor, 48 Column building, Sukhumvit Soi 16, www.longtablebangkok.com

La Table de Tee: Possibly the best deal in the city.in a little alley in Silom, La Table de Tee offers a 6 course degustation for 900 baht - that's less than $30!! The chef (Tee) is Thai born, Michelin star restaurant in London trained, and has returned to Bangkok to offer his signature Thai meets French style cuisine. For an up to the minute menu, check their Facebook page. 69/5 Saladaeng Road, Silom, www.latabledetee.com

Food court at MBK (the Thai one on the 6th floor, not the 'international' one on the level below): Buy a wad of coupons then swap them for delicious street food style eats in this crowded but well worth the elbow fight food court. A fresh juice from the juice stand is the perfect accompaniment to a fiery plate of pad kee mao. Also - it's ridiculously cheap. 444 Phayathai Road, Patumwan, www.mbk-center.co.th

COFFEE & SWEETS

Ohana: Single origin coffees, yummy patisserie style treats and great western cafe fare, if you're in need of a spice break. There's a wall of books for browsing (with lots of good food titles), an indoor tree and floor to ceiling glass windows. Relaxing, chic and some of the best coffee I've found in Bangkok. 50/4 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (a few blocks behind Emporium mall), www.ohana.co.th

Agalico: An elegant, peaceful oasis, Agalico is an all-white tea room with a Parisienne feel. It's a seriously stunning space and the perfect respite from the city's fast pace. A selection of homemade cakes are on the counter and there's a beautiful range of teas (I always have vanilla, I think it's the white surrounds!). Heaven. 20 Sukhumvit Soi 51, www.agalico.co.th

Ka-Nom: A bit of a hi-so Thai hangout (think ladies who lunch, with pet poodle in tow), it's all about the egg tarts here. You can choose from egg yolk or egg white - my pick is the yolk as they're so much richer. 122 Sukhumvit Soi 49, www.ka-nom.com

It's Happened to be a Closet at Siam Square

It's Happened to be a Closet: A quirky name for a quirky place - this is a vintage clothing shop meets cafe meets beauty salon, so you can peruse colourful outfits, have a well made Lavazza and a luscious dessert, then have your nails done. The Siam Square branch has comfortable couches and a gorgeous maximalist style cafe section tucked upstairs, while at Emporium, another outlet has a luxe private room (or you can sit out the front at both if people watching's more your thing). 266/3 Siam Square Soi 3, www.itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com

iberry: Highly addictive icecreams and sorbets with fruity, Asiany flavours plus all the caramelly, chocolatey ones too. Love the tamarind and mangosteen...and pretty much everything else on offer. Siam Paragon, Siam Square Soi 2 and more, www.iberryhandmade.com

SHOP

Offerings amidst the market stalls at Chatuchak

Chatuchak Market: The weekend market - Chatuchak - is an absolute must. It's the largest outdoor market in the world, and stocks everything you'd expect and then some. Best buys here (if you're not in the market for a new pet) include clothes and accessories by small scale Thai designers, if you can look past the typical touristy stalls to find them. The best way to get to Chatuchak is to catch the skytrain to Mo Chit, and the best time to go is around 10am - not so early the stalls haven't started opening, but to beat the hordes (and heat) that descend around lunchtime. www.chatuchak.org

Siam Square: An amazing labrynth of fashion focussed tiny stores and market stalls, many with unique, amazing decor. Dedicate some time to weaving in out of the arcades connecting the main sois (streets) for hidden finds - there are many!

Siam Paragon: There are lots of malls in Bangkok, but this is the ultimate. You could spend days here - there's even an aquarium. Beyond the high-end stores like Jimmy Choo and Marc Jacobs there are 'normal' shops like Mango and Zara, Kinokuniya for cheaper than home books, a great department store, the fragrant and fabulous Spice Story, and lots of amazing foodie buys at the Gourmet Market, a supermarket on steroids. There's also the gorgeous Thai spa brand Harn & Thann for candles, soaps, skincare etc. with Asian scents like jasmine and lemongrass. www.siamparagon.co.th

Thonglor: This is a great neighbourhood for a taste of where trendy Thais and expats live, shop and eat. It's large and spread out, and many of the great finds are down the side sois, so it takes a bit of time to explore. I could tell you more but I'll leave it to the experts, as LUXE City Guides have compiled this great Thonglor tour as featured in Living Etc. magazine.

Jim Thompson factory outlet: Head here for discounted yet high quality silk and other textile products from the famous Jim Thompson brand (see here for more on the man who is said to have revived Thailand's silk industry). Silk placemat and coaster sets, fabric tote bags and cosmetic bags are some of the good buys here, and you can also buy fabrics by the metre if you're craftily inclined. 153 Soi Sukhumvit 93, www.jimthompson.com

Platinum Fashion Mall: Not for the fainthearted shopper, Platinum is a wholesale clothing and accessory market housed inside a mall. The tiny, crammed stalls and shops do sell by the individual piece, but the price gets cheaper the more you buy. One issue is that you can't try the clothing on, but the prices are cheap so it's worth the 'buy it anyway' gamble. To get an idea of prices, I've bought dresses and tops here for 150-200 baht a piece (i.e. around $5-6). Like any market or cheap mall in Asia there's alot of tacky stuff but some really cool finds too! 222 (Pratunam) Petchaburi Road, www.platinumfashionmall.com

STAY

Cheap
Atlanta Hotel: Amazing, retro lobby (the highlight), a strict no sexpat policy, cheap but delicious Thai food at the 50s diner style restaurant plus a pool, and the skytrain's at the end of the street The rooms are very basic though (think an old school, dated Khao San Road area guesthouse room, but cleaner). 78 Soi 2 Sukhumvit Road, www.theatlantahotelbangkok.com

Mid Range
Novotel Siam Square: A stock standard, found everywhere, international chain hotel, with an awesome location smack bang in the middle of the Siam shopping madness. I've stayed here three or four times now and I love being able to walk out the door to a world of Bangkok shopping on my doorstep, or to get a massage at one of the cheap and cheerful places across the road from the hotel's side entrance. 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6, www.novotel.com

The 'levitating' beds at Dream

Boutique
Dream Bangkok: Funky, futuristic Dream uses a soothing blue and white colour palette with glowing blue light emitting from beneath the bed. It's comfortable, chic and comes with extra comforts like nice toiletries and magazines in the room. The hotel's Flava Restaurant and Lounge has delicious contemporary cuisine and decor, and the bar's experimental cocktails are amazing. I loved my stay here - it's perfect for couples. 10 Sukhumvit Soi 15, www.dreambkk.com

5 star
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit: Great, central location with the skytrain literally on the doorstep, the Sheraton offers efficient, smooth service and rooms a little larger than the norm. The bathroom's extra large too - if you're not looking for boutiquey cool (and Bangkok has plenty of that), it's a really solid, comfortable option. 250 Sukhumvit Road, www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com

Guest post on Le fabuleux destin

2011-09-23T14:58:00.000+10:00

Kampot's shophouse lined streets - full of faded charm!

One of my favourite travel blogs, Le fabuleux destin, features the most stunning photography from the talented Kristina (who is Swiss based but soon relocating to Melbourne). She just invited me to be part of her Travel Snapshots series, which so far features Italy, Mexico and Berlin (and now Cambodia!). You can see my guest post about Kep and Kampot in beautiful southern Cambodia here.

These were two of my favourite places to visit when we lived in Cambodia - beautiful, eerie, surreal Kep with its faded, crumbling villas amidst a lush tropical setting, and charming Kampot with its shophouses, French colonial buildings and peaceful riverfront. I miss them! Thanks for featuring me Kristina!

Zumbo's by sea

2011-09-13T09:42:00.000+10:00

Despite the lure of lesser queues at Cre Asion (although that might have changed in the last few weeks?!) I braved Zumbo's again, and let's just say weekdays are a whole different story (less people, more macarons!). From 'The Lab', Adriano Zumbo's cafe and Willy Wonka-esque pastry making kitchen in Rozelle, we picked up a few of his latest macaron flavours: butterscotch caramel, salted butter popcorn and coffee cream brulee (complete with crunchy sugar coating). The perfect spot to devour them? Perched by the harbour at a small beach backed by parkland in beautiful Birchgrove. Sydney bliss! (Oh, and I recommend buying the butterscotch caramel by the truckload, they're that good!).

Links to devour

2011-09-06T16:08:00.000+10:00

Dishoom pop-up restaurant (London)

Food trends and new Sydney eats - the SMH Good Food Guide 2012 is out

A Sydney caffeine hit list to drink your way through

The Unbearable Lightness of Being Hungry has posted an excellent round-up of the year's best new places to drink and eat (yes, Sydney again). The to-do list just got a lot longer!

This pop-up Indian restaurant in London is so colourful and kitsch

Inspirational photo blogger, Louise from 52 Suburbs has an exciting international project planned

So excited to stay out in the rice paddies at Bueng Pai Farm in two months time (in northern Thailand)!

Image courtesy Fast Co. Design via Ivy & Piper

Lao heaven at Holy Basil, Canley Heights

2011-09-02T16:45:00.000+10:00

The destination:

Cabramatta's quieter cousin Canley Heights for Lao/Thai food at Holy Basil.

The vibe:
Let's just say this place could have been transported straight from Crown Street, Surry Hills to far flung suburban Sydney. Gorgeous, mod-Asian decor (gold buddha statues, a wall of mortar and pestles, splashes of hot pink), a bar, open kitchen, outdoor seating for a post-meal Toby's Estate...If this is the new face of southwest Sydney, I think some more weekend excursions are in order!

The eats:
The menu features Lao specialities with some old faithful Thai dishes (yum, but yawn). We ate nam tok (a Lao beef salad laden with fresh herbs), kai yang (Lao charcoal grilled chicken), Lao sausage and steaming hot sticky rice served in individual baskets.

The verdict:
The price is right though some say high for the area (most dishes are in the $10-15 range), the decor is gorgeous, the service swift and the food, amazing. The soft Lao sausage fragrant with lemongrass and kaffir lime was my favourite. If only it was a little closer to home. Closer than Laos, at least!

Holy Basil, 233A Canley Vale Road, Canley Heights, tel: 02 9727 7585

Ashfield day, Shanghai Night

2011-08-15T20:52:00.002+10:00

The destination:

Shanghai Night for northern Chinese cuisine in the heart of Ashfield's bustling restaurant and food shopping strip - think Indian spice stores, seafood shops, huge fruit and veg emporiums and copious Chinese restaurants (did someone say dumplings?!).

The vibe:
A busy, buzzing, happy, family oriented scene heavy on Chinese patrons, with no frills decor complete with colourful cardboard signage showcasing the specials.

The eats:
Dumplings (of course!) in the form of pork and crab soup dumplings and a pork and coriander variety, with a huge platter of spicy Sichuan chicken, one of the restaurant's 'winter specials'.

The verdict:
The delicious pork and coriander dumplings dunked in vinegar trumped the 'not quite as good as Din Tai Fung' soup dumplings (though they definitely beat DTF for price), while the Sichuan chicken was bursting with spice, heat and flavour. A winner for a cheap and cheerful foray into Ashfield's Asian food scene.

Shanghai Night, 275 Liverpool Road, Ashfield, tel: 02 9798 8437

Cre Asion: A new macaron mecca

2011-08-04T22:07:00.001+10:00

White miso...plum wine...avocado...strawberry milk...

I still love Zumbo's macarons...I really do. But I don't want to wait in a queue halfway down Darling Street for my fix. For very long, anyway. Which is why I was so happy to arrive at new macaron purveyor and tea house, Cre Asion, to find only one other customer there and a whole counter of colourful macarons that hadn't already been pillaged by half of Sydney.

Set in a modern industrial style glass cube with Japanese influences, Cre Asion is tucked down a non-descript alleyway behind the city's Liverpool Street, bordering Surry Hills. The macaron maestro behind the new venture is Yu Sasaki, formerly of Christine Mansfield's Universal. His macarons are a textural delight and exciting to taste, from the full flavoured chocolate to the zesty, on-trend yuzu. Also tried - a delicious blood orange, and my overall favourite, a rich caramel.

Caramel, yuzu and chocolate macarons

These are definite contenders for the title of Sydney's best macarons...it's a shame the crowds will no doubt soon follow!

Cre Asion, 21 Alberta Street, Sydney, open Mon-Fri 7.30am-4pm, Sat 8.30am-4pm

Brunch at Kazbah, Balmain

2011-08-01T15:03:00.000+10:00

Chickpea fritters and pork belly shish kebab

The destination:
Kazbah, for a midday middle eastern flavour fix in the heart of buzzing Balmain

The vibe:
A big, brash, buzzing brunch crowd of all ages, queuing out the door for a coveted big table

The eats:
- Breakfast tajine (lamb mince, sucuk, spinach, roast capsicum, roast tomato, caramelised onion, feta, eggs, turkish toast and lebanese bread)
- Chickpea fritters with a pork belly shish kebab, labne, baby spinach, roast tomato, poached eggs and capsicum sauce
- Moroccan mint tea, fresh watermelon juice and Turkish coffee

The verdict:
Big ticks for the hearty, huge servings, perfectly poached eggs and beautifully spiced Moroccan tea; the kid-friendly factor and vibrant atmosphere. I just wish the Turkish coffee was a little stronger and sludgier, the chickpea fritters spicier... or maybe it's just me, always wanting flavours that pack a punch!

Kazbah, 379 Darling Street, Balmain, tel: 02 9555 7067

I'm in CLEO magazine!

2011-07-26T15:08:00.000+10:00

I'm so, so happy to be featured in the August 2011 issue of CLEO magazine (even if it was written in my former Asia-dwelling lifetime as A Girl in Asia)! Check it out...a little interview on Phnom Penh's hotspots. Nice to see some other bloggers I 'know' like Anja from Ever the Nomad and Cate from Caffeinated Traveller gracing the same pages too!

Addicted to...online decor mags

2011-07-23T17:32:00.000+10:00

The growing number of online magazines devoted to decor are full of aspirational interior eye candy. Home tours, design blogger profiles, covetable art and furniture, rooms bursting with colour and style... they've taken the time suck that is internet browsing to a whole new level (help!). I'm currently devouring:

Have you come across any good online magazines, decor or otherwise?

Isaan food at House

2011-07-15T11:47:00.000+10:00

Part of the courtyard at House

The flavours of Isaan (in northeastern Thailand) are, in a nutshell, fishy, sour and spicy. There's an absence of coconut milk, and the hot, dry, inland location of Isaan province means a reliance on fermented, pickled and preserved ingredients, like fermented fish and pickled bamboo. The fermented fish part may not sound too enticing (after tasting prahok - fermented fish paste - in Cambodia, I wasn't too sure about it), but when balanced with sour and spicy ingredients it enhances each dish with a richness and depth of flavour.

Need further convincing?! Head to House, a contemporary ode to the flavours of Isaan, with tasty larbs, soups, papaya salads, grilled meats and more served up in clean, modern surrounds. Tucked behind Triple Ace Hotel, you can head through an adjoining door to the pub to purchase drinks to bring back to your table. There's a buzzing open kitchen, and really polite and helpful Thai staff (aaaaah, Thai customer service!). As for the all important food factor, the dishes are cheap (for Sydney) at around $8-14 each, come to your table ridiculously quickly, and are packed full of flavour.

Spicy bamboo salad

Devoured:

Nua Daed Deaw ($8) - Sun dried beef strips with Jim Jaew dipping sauce

Spicy Bamboo Salad ($12) - Steamed long bamboo with yanang leaf extract water, eschallots, Vietnamese coriander and ground roasted rice

Mok Gai Hua Plee ($12) - Steamed curry chicken with banana flower, eschallots, lemongrass, galangal and chilli

Sundried beef

The beef is like a perfect drinking snack - savoury and moreish, the steamed chicken curry comforting and warming, kind of like a chicken version of Cambodia's fish amok, and the bamboo salad a flavour explosion and my overall favourite dish. House offers a refreshing change from Sydney's stock standard pad thai and green curry joints with its foray into regional cuisine, and I can't wait to go back.

House, 202 Elizabeth St, Surry Hills, tel: 02 9280 0364

Lakemba lovin' at Jasmin's

2011-07-06T13:46:00.000+10:00

Lebanese perfection, plated!

The lightest, fluffiest garlic sauce, the crunchiest falafels with the softest insides, the tastiest tabouli, the smokiest chicken, the most mountainous pile of Lebanese bread you've ever been served, the pickle-iest pickles, you get the idea? Sounds like heaven on a plate, and indeed it is. Order a mixed plate for $15 (we had the chicken shawarma) and share it with a friend or two. The original Jasmin's restaurant in multi-culti Lakemba is definitely worth the hop, skip and jump southwest. Simply, wow.

Jasmin's, 30b Haldon St, Lakemba, tel: 02 9740 3589

Expat life: the aftermath

2011-07-04T22:06:00.000+10:00

The colour and chaos of the markets (photo taken in Kratie, Cambodia)

Moving back to Australia was never going to be easy or without its issues after almost half a decade living in southeast Asia. The weird thing is, it's actually taken about 6 months of settling back into our 'old' life before I've had the headspace to reflect and remember (and over-analyse) our time in Asia.

The grass is always greener....

When we first moved home we barely had time to look backwards with all the setting up home and re-establishing life kind of stuff going on. We even joked that our time in Asia seemed like some kind of dream - did it really happen? But slowly, little reminders crept up on us and before too long life became a full-blown comparison fest of Saigon vs Sydney, Asia vs Australia. The winner has yet to be determined. It's the age old grass is always greener dilemma where we look back and remember the best bits of expat life in Asia and pine for it all, while conveniently forgetting the random power cuts, the incessant noise, the neverending battles with dodgy tuk tuk and taxi drivers, the meltdowns, the frustrations.

The differences...

Life at home is smoother, simpler, easier, and much more private. You go about your daily business here without a staring brigade and a barrage of questions from the neighbours and random passers-by about where you're going and how much you just paid for your bag of fruit. No-one cares. Strangers pass each other by here with barely a cursory glance. At first I liked it, now I kind of miss my inane conversations with my friend Yen about how much each and every item of clothing we were wearing that day cost us (I don't think she could believe her luck when she learnt of my penchant for bargains. Despite the vast socio-economic difference between us we could actually be shopping buddies and buy matching 40,000 dong tops. Which we did.)

Another difference has been the customer service in Australia compared to most other places in Asia. Sometimes, back in Sydney, we've sat in a cafe for a while before realising we were supposed to order at the counter. Same at bars. Of course we should know better but we've become so used to table service the whole help yourself mentality here has been a little strange to adjust to. And if we needed a taxi it would find us. Here, we have to book ahead... the list goes on. We were definitely spoilt in Asia, in so many ways. I don't miss the hovering at restaurants though. Or the frequent ordering mix-ups (as one friend said - order what you want, eat what you're given!).

What I miss...

I miss the creativity and aesthetics of so many aspects of southeast Asian life, from colourful temples and gorgeously decked out cafes, to the way fruit would be stacked so beautifully at a market - order amongst the chaos. I miss the random smiles from strangers and the well-meaning questions, the overly generous hospitality of strangers, the tropical heat, the smell of incense and grilling meat in the air, the smiley kids, the colours, the food, the plants... And the holidays. An hour or two on a plane and we could be at a tropical Asian beach, a heritage listed colonial era town, another thriving Asian metropolis.

Life in Sydney seems less global, less mobile, calmer, quieter. It's a more grounded life with family and old friends and our own place. I still can't decide if this is preferable to transience and the new friends and new experiences that accompany it. When I figure it out, I'll let you know. I would be interested to hear your thoughts if you've lived away from home then moved back again - what did you miss? How did you cope?

Links to devour

2011-06-26T22:04:00.000+10:00

The gorgeous Rice - I want to go! Image via Bright Bazaar

The inspiring story of how LUXE City Guides came to be

These five inventive coffees would be good to try

Cool store tour of London's Rice via the equally colour crazy Bright Bazaar blog

Anthony Bourdain talks life, writing and food at the Sydney Writer's Festival (if you have a spare hour to listen!) - fascinating how his life has changed so much in the last 10 years

Weekend wanderings in the inner east

2011-06-23T11:08:00.000+10:00

Kawa on Crown Street

I can't seem to get enough of Surry Hills and surrounds since moving back to Sydney - it's always been a favourite, but there's something about the energy, architecture, cafe culture and non-stop crop of cool new bars and restaurants that makes it the place I want to be right now.

A sunny but slightly chilly Saturday called for a Surry-hurst exploration on foot. First stop was cute cafe Kawa, with its tiki and tribal accents, hanging tropical plants, bountiful fruit display awaiting the juicer and mismatched vintage vibe. After fuelling up on eggs benedict and coffees we headed off on an epic walk all over the inner east, from Darlinghurst and Surry Hills across to Kings Cross and Potts Point, and eventually back to the city.

Lunch was at the very Euro La Petit Creme (french onion soup and merguez and harissa sandwich). The cafe has an old school, antiquey look and a busy, bustling vibe, an open fast paced kitchen and cool French and Spanish accented patrons.

Double happiness - rosewater, mandarin & honey; salted caramel and white choc chip
plus chocolate fondante and rasberry. Who cares that it's winter!

Next stop was Gelato Messina, renowned for their innovative gelato flavours and often hailed as Sydney's best gelato - now I see why. The rosewater, mandarin and honey combination was a middle eastern inspired taste trip and my overall favourite. Also devoured - the salted caramel and white choc chip, the chocolate fondante and raspberry, which were all amazingly rich and full of flavour.

We also visited The Artery, a not-for-profit gallery featuring contemporary aboriginal art. The art is actually affordable (well, by art's standards!) and really appeals to my love of colour and pattern. I fell in love with so many stunning pieces and am seriously thinking of buying something!

Water Dreaming by Rex Winston Walford (image courtesy The Artery)

Bush Yam Dreaming by Jeannie Mills Pwerle (image courtesy The Artery)

After a wander across to Potts Point's shops and art galleries we headed back to the city to Grandma's, a fairly recent addition to Sydney's small bar scene. A subterranean room is decked out in mismatched retro furniture and fittings and the cocktail list is long and enticing. Tiki and rum flavoured cocktails dominate, with a nod to prohibition era concoctions. There are a few beers like Tiger (umm, no thanks - after nearly five years in Asia I don't want to see another Tiger for a long time, or Beer Chang, or Angkor, or 333....!). We stuck to wine and had a great Printhie Shiraz from Orange that the barman suggested (tip - the pour here is VERY generous!). Like hanging out in someone's loungeroom, Grandma's is a comfortable, casual and cosy affair. There was even an actual grandma having drinks there - she must have been at least 75! The clientele was a really diverse mix - definitely a welcoming and unpretentious place for a drink. Loved it!

The kitsch-fest stairwell down to Grandma's

Kawa, 346-350 Crown St, Surry Hills, tel: 02 9331 6811
La Petit Creme, 118 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst, tel: 02 9361 4738
Gelato Messina, Shop 1/241 Victoria St, Darlinghurst, tel: 02 8354 1223
The Artery, Shop 2 The Westbury, 221 Darlinhurst Rd, Darlinghurst, tel: 02 9380 8234
Grandma's, basement of 275 Clarence St, Sydney, tel: 02 9264 3004

Campsie Food Festival

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Taste of Senegal, beef arepa, Korean bbq, fataya

Last weekend we ventured southwest to Campsie (think Sydney's Koreatown in the burbs) for its annual food festival, along with 20,000 other hungry souls. Giving the kim chi eating competition a miss we headed to Campsie's main drag, Beamish Street, where several blocks were cordoned off and lined with food stalls.

Korean barbecue was a prominent player (mmm, meat on sticks) along with a whole range of diverse cuisines featuring the usual suspects (gozleme, where do you not pop up?!) and some not so typical. Along with Malaysian, Korean and Chinese snacks we had a Colombian arepa and some Senegalese lamb stew and fatayas, a type of fish pastry similar to a samosa.

Colourful Campsie, Vietnamese fruit carvings

As for the more standard fare, the char kway teow from the Albee's Kitchen stand was tasty enough to require a return trip to Campsie to eat at their restaurant, with further enticement from Not Quite Nigella's review (though I'm not sure about the Marmite chicken?!). Korean is definitely on the agenda too... next time, Campsie!

Chinese bbq restaurant doing a brisk trade in egg tarts and snacks

121BC and District Dining

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On a mission to find new Italian wine bar 121BC we stumbled around Surry Hills' Holt Street for what seemed like eternity. After a few misses and a quick enquiry at nearby Vini (121BC's big sister bar and restaurant) we were on our way down the adjacent alleyway, meeting another lost couple enroute. Reason for all the confusion - it's listed in some places as 4/50 Holt Street without the all important 'enter via Gladstone Street' (don't enter 50 Holt Street itself or you'll just be in the lobby of an office building!).

Finally inside 121BC, we were seated at the one long communal table. A blackboard list of Italian whites on the left and reds on the right was before us and the staff made some excellent recommendations. We loved the atmosphere, the unique and amazing wines, the customer service and the idea you can purchase a full bottle of your favourite at the adjacent wine shop. Small bar perfection!

Mondrian-esque map at District Dining's entrance

Next, it was onto dinner at District Dining, the more casual offering from 2-hatted Assiette's Warren Turnbull.

Devoured:
1 bottle of Spanish white (Albarino)
Scallops with artichoke, pancetta and prune
Kingfish with wasabi pannacotta, quinoa and ponzu
Roasted spatchcock, sweetcorn, succotash and bacon
Braised beef cheek, cauliflower, pedro ximenez and prunes
Dark chocolate brownie, macadamia brittle, white chocolate icecream
Mandarin brulee, cardamom and poached mandarin
2 macchiatos (using organic Allpress coffee)

The seafood entrees were both delicious, with the scallops beautifully cooked and the wasabi pannacotta the perfect accompaniment to the super fresh kingfish. The spatchcock had an amazing cajun-like seasoning which made the dish, and the beef cheeks were unbelievably tender (and our overall favourite dish of the night). The desserts weren't of the to-die-for variety with the brownie a little low on the chocolate factor, but the brulee's dynamic cardamom and mandarin flavour combo managed to compensate.

Verdict? District Dining was casually and comfortably cool, with friendly service and a moreish menu. I now feel compelled to return and try the quail eggs with tarragon mayo and, well, pretty much everything else we didn't order!

121BC Cantina & Enoteca, 4/50 Holt St (enter via Gladstone St), Tel: 02 9699 1582, www.121bc.com.au

District Dining, 17 Randle St, Surry Hills, Tel: 02 9211 7798, www.districtdining.com.au

Art and tea at White Rabbit

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Contemporary Chinese art...a teahouse...a converted former knitting factory...a cool backstreet Chippendale location...White Rabbit gallery ticks all the right boxes for a dose of modern Asia in downtown Sydney. It's a family owned gallery featuring an extensive private collection of Chinese art created since the year 2000 - all for the public's free viewing pleasure.

The gallery's current exhibition, A Decade of the Rabbit, features colourful, innovative works by contemporary Chinese artists, from neon Chinese signage to a recreation of a typical doorway found in suburban Chinese cities woven entirely from thread. It's colourful, intriguing, inspiring, thought provoking, nostalgic yet fresh.

Back on ground level, the birdcage adorned tea house features an extensive menu of loose leaf teas from whites, greens and oolongs to those flavoured with roses, lychees and goji berries. Labelled tins featuring samples of each tea leaf variety are on the centre of each table to smell.

Devoured:
Jin Xuan, a Taiwanese milk oolong with a distinct smooth and sweet flavour, and Yin Zhen (or Silver Needle), a delicate, premium white tea. Both were amazing but I preferred the milk oolong's more unique taste.

White Rabbit, 30 Balfour Street, Chippendale NSW 2008, +61 (02) 8399 2867, open Thurs-Sun 10am-6pm

Welcome!

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Welcome to devoured, a new (and hopefully improved) Australia-based version of my old blog A Girl in Asia, which uncovered good eats, crushworthy cafes, places to see and stay and the odd shopping find in southeast Asia.

Sydney-based and Asian flavoured, devoured is: a pot of chai in Glebe, a trek to Fairfield for Lao food, a night at a Crown Street wine bar and a mini-break to Bangkok. It's a trip to an art gallery and a rummage through a Lebanese supermarket in Bankstown, washed down with a strong espresso shot and a cocktail or two. devoured is part exploration, part inspiration, with lots of good things to eat and drink along the way. Read on, subscribe, comment - I look forward to having you along on this new blogging journey!